Disclosure: Some posts on this blog may contain affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I may be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links.
Chasing the aurora borealis has been on my bucket list for years. This was my year to see them and Fairbanks, Alaska was the destination. Add dogsledding, walking with reindeer, soaking in hot springs, and embracing solitude, my winter solo trip was as enchanting and magical as I hoped.
Escaping Florida for a Long Weekend in Fairbanks
Last year was rough. My community was impacted by three hurricanes, and I contracted Lyme disease. There were some challenging days, mentally with all the storm damage, especially since we’re still recovering from 2022’s Hurricane Ian, and physically. As I took on Lyme disease, there were weeks when my head was in a constant fog and I’m not sure how I made it through the day. Other days, I felt as if I was reaching the end of my time.
My magical winter Alaska trip was good for my soul. I don’t know whether I’ll fully recover from Lyme and what my quality of life will be a decade from now. As I age, I’m constantly reminded each day is a gift. The combination of last year’s circumstances and life’s general uncertainty is exactly why I planned my trip to view the northern lights.
Life is too short, so I said yes to adventure!
Why Travel to Fairbanks in January?
I was looking to maximize my vacation time and traveled over the Marting Luther King Junior Day, observed the third Monday of January. Many cities offer opportunities to chase the aurora, and I chose Fairbanks. The Golden Heart City in Alaska’s interior is a winter wonderland with minimal light pollution, relatively clear nights, and perfectly situated under the Aurora Oval, a ring around the North Pole with concentrated northern lights activity. Other factors in my decision were my desires to dogsled, soak in Chena Hot Springs, and stay within the U.S.
Late last year, I was reminded about solar maximum and how the sun’s 11-year solar cycle will peak this summer. Leading up to and after, the aurora is expected to be more frequent and vibrant. Add in an affordable, yet long flight, and Fairbanks it was!
OMG! I Caught the Aurora My First Night!
Because it’s a natural phenomenon, typically visible mid-August to mid-April, if you want to catch the northern lights, you need to stay at least three nights in Fairbanks. At least that’s what Google said. Lucky me, I caught them the first night!
I booked a nighttime dogsledding, dinner, and aurora chasing tour with 1st Alaska Tours as my first adventure. Promptly at 9 p.m., the tour company picked me up from my first night’s accommodation. The van was loaded with seven other passengers in the back, so I rode shotgun.
The driver whisked us up to Murphy Dome, about a 30-minute drive from the city. As the van rolled up the road, out the window was a ribbon of pale, green light in the dark sky. The northern lights!
I gasped while soaking in the sight of the aurora borealis and my body shivered with goosebumps. I’m pretty sure those goosebumps were from witnessing a mesmerizing display in the sky and checking off a bucket list activity and not the sub-zero temperature.
We soon continued to our evening destination with Arctic Winter Adventures. Before entering the warm yurt, we stood in the subzero temperature to admire the captivating aurora. Pinch me! It was as mystifying as I hoped. In awe, I stayed outside as long as possible, admiring the dazzling display. Not surprisingly, I was the last one to enter the yurt.
Dog Sledding Under the Aurora
Soon after, we prepared for the next activity, an evening dog sledding tour. Or is the term mushing? The two terms seem to be interchangeable, except dog sledding seems to take place on ice and mushing is a broader term.
Either way, it’s been part of Alaska’s culture for centuries and relied on by the indigenous people. In modern times, mushing and Alaska go together, especially with the inception of the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race. A long-distance, about 1,000 miles, race from Anchorage to Nome was held in the first part of March. But not this year. Due to a lack of snow in the Anchorage area, Fairbanks was the starting point. Smaller dog sledding races are held throughout the state during the winter.
Prior to hopping atop the sled, I wandered through the sled dog area. Dozens were individually chained up next to small, square-shaped dog houses. All barked and wiggled with excitement, while some jumped and barked atop their house. Two mushers selected dogs one by one and harnessed them up for an evening run.
Each sled had two benches and accommodated four people. Behind me sat a couple and next to me was another female solo traveler, who happened to be on my flight from Seattle to Fairbanks. Each bench received a blanket to cover up over our laps but soon after the mushing began, mine slipped to the sled’s floor.
With the musher’s yell and a bit of a jolt, the dogs took off running and barking and I held on for dear life. For certain I thought I’d fall off when the sled rounded a bend or glided over a hill, but gravity and a strong core kept me safe on the sled. It was dark and the musher often shone a flashlight on the wintery terrain, which I suspect was to look for moose and avoid a collision rather than sightseeing. The light allowed for a glimpse of the dogs who were yapping at each other between taking bites out of snowbanks and urinating and pooping along the trail. Hey, when you gotta go, ya just go!
Disoriented as to where the aurora was, about midway through the trip, I looked over to my left and above the treetops and spotted the ribbon of green light in the sky. Icy wind tingled my cheeks and cold snow kicked up by the dogs pelted my face. I embraced this perfect and glorious adventure.
A Midnight Meal: Alaskan Salmon, Of Course
Upon returning to the yurt before midnight, warm beverages awaited, along with dinner featuring Alaskan salmon. The intimate setting allowed casual dialogue with other tour goers, the guide and cook. The four of us who were in one of the dogsleds shared photos via Airdrop.
We were invited to ask the staff questions about living in Alaska. I was appalled yet curious learning about dry cabin life, using an outhouse, and a stick to well, use your imagination when temperatures freeze and create manmade mountains in the outhouse. Perhaps if I return to Fairbanks, I’ll investigate this a little more. We headed back to the hotel around 1 a.m. and I was ready to take on the next adventure, sunrise dog sledding.
Trip Tips: This was a great experience, especially being a solo traveler. The tour company picked me up from the hotel and took care of all the planning. It was also a fun way to meet other people. Don’t forget cash to tips (The dog musher, driver and cook.).
Solo Sunrise Dog Sledding Adventure
There isn’t much I’d change about my itinerary, but I wish I checked sunrise and sunset times. Winter means shorter days in Alaska. Sunrise was about 10:15 a.m. and sunset was around 3:30 p.m.
I booked a morning dog sledding trip because I wanted to dash by the Alaskan winter wonderland in the daylight. 10 a.m. was the first trip of the day with Paws for Adventure so I booked that trip. And then I looked at the sunrise time. Because I already locked in my ground transportation, I kept this trip thinking they wouldn’t make it available if it wasn’t worth it.
Let me tell ya, it was sooo worth it! Because I traveled solo, I had to pay for two seats, the minimum number for the sled. Sure, this doubled the cost of the activity but again, it was worth it because the trip was a completely different experience from the night before.
Rather than sitting atop, I was tucked into a cocoon on the sled bed and felt warm and secure. Because this was the first trip of the day, the trails were fresh, and I watched the sunrise while dashing over pristine snow. The guide was talkative, and it was easy to hear her.
Although there are longer trips, I opted for a 30-minute run. Like the night before, dogs nipped at each other, took bites of snow for hydration, and relieved themselves while running. Afterwards, I soaked up some puppy love with the dogs in the kennel area.
Trip Tips: I booked with Paws for Adventure because it’s a woman-owned business. The experience is wonderful. Enjoy the yurt, where you check in. There’s a wood-burning stove along with cookies and hot beverages. Don’t forget to tip your guide, which can be done electronically if you don’t have cash. (Paws four Adventure: Herning Rd., Fairbanks, AK 99712; Tel: 907-699-3960)
Chilling and Soaking in Solitude
Chena Hot Springs Resort has been a bucket list destination for over a decade and once I stepped foot in the main lodge, I felt like I was home. The lodge’s rustic décor and a front of the house team from all over the United States reminded me of my Yellowstone days.
The more I explored the property, the more I felt the nostalgia of working in America’s beautiful spaces. Working in the hospitality industry is grueling but the opportunity of living and working where people vacation is a privilege.
The resort’s main attraction is the outdoor natural hot springs rock lake which is cooled down to a comfortable 105 degrees Fahrenheit. The source water is over 150 degrees, which would be unbearable for humans to enjoy. Geothermal energy powers the resort and I took the free tour to the onsite greenhouse, where veggies to supply the restaurant are grown.
I try not to fret over regrets, but I do regret only soaking in the hot springs once. I took my dip after sunrise on my only full day, and I shared the lake with a handful of other visitors. Yes, it was cold walking from the pool house locker room to the lake but it wasn’t as cold getting out. Because the air temperature was below zero, I dipped my head in the warm water only to have it freeze over with a light coating of ice. Fun!
The resort’s main lodge houses the lodging registration desk, dining room and bar, gift shop and meeting space. Sleeping rooms are divided into separate buildings. Mine, called a Fox Room, was in a building with three other units.
I dined in the lodge’s restaurant for a couple of meals, which were both very good. I grabbed quick bites and lattes from the Aurora Café and Gift Shop in the same building that houses the Activity Center. This is the meeting point for most activities including a tour of the Aurora Ice Museum, Aurora Viewing Tour and Geothermal Energy and Greenhouse Tour. The Activity Center is open 24 hours and has a room facing north where you can wait for the aurora in the warmth.
Travel Tips: Explore as much as possible including visiting the dog sled kennel for some (more) doggy love. If you book the ice museum, pay the fee to drink an apple martini in an ice-carved glass then when you leave, bring it outside and smash it against the ground. It’s a tradition. While in the Activity Center, have your two complimentary luggage tags made, it’s a nice souvenir to fondly remember your experience. There’s a locker room to store your clothing and other small items when you’re soaking in the springs. If you want to take your phone into the springs, don’t forget a waterproof pouch or purchase one upon entering.
I work in the energy sector, so I was intrigued with the resort’s geothermal operations. It was fascinating entering the greenhouse and tasting a grape tomato grown inside and learning more about geothermal energy. Don’t forget cash for tipping your guides throughout the property, including the ice museum carver. (Chena Hot Springs Resort; 17600 Chena Hot Springs Rd.; Fairbanks, AK 99712; Tel: 907-451-8104)
An Enchanting Walk with Reindeer in a Birch Forest
The North Pole is located relatively close to Fairbanks and it’s where you have a pretty good chance of meeting Santa Claus. Because I visited the North Pole during my summer Fairbanks visit in 2011, I skipped a return visit.
Instead, I booked a group walk at Running Reindeer Ranch in Fairbanks and it was delightful. The two-hour experience begins before arrival. Participants are instructed to watch informational videos beforehand to learn how to interact with the resident reindeer and how to stay safe. My biggest takeaways are to not touch their antlers and stand like a tree when they get rambunctious.
Onsite, each reindeer is introduced with a backstory about their name. It’s a bit like a gameshow contestant called down to the floor. Handlers bring them down from the stable to the group meeting point then let them go. Some pranced around while others engaged in playful games.
Soon after, we walked up into the forest, and while wearing what felt like 50 lbs. of winter outerwear, I huffed and puffed a little bit walking up the snow-covered hill. Thankfully, the group paused a few times up the hill, long enough for me to catch my breath.
Learning about reindeer life, walking alongside them, petting their thick fur, seeing the herd running through the forest, and grabbing selfies, was magical enough. Adding to the mystique was the sun’s golden hour. Because the activity began at 1 p.m. and sunset was after 3 p.m., the setting sun cast a stunning golden hue through the birch forest, that perfect light for photographers.
The walk ended back at the beginning with hot chocolate and famous oatmeal chocolate chip cookies for everyone. The ranch works with local artists who craft jewelry out of reindeer antlers. To remember my experience and my winter trip to Alaska, I bought a pair of earrings crafted by a silversmith. The jewelry incorporates an antler disc surrounded by two silver rings. I wear them at least once a week and think fondly of my trip.
Travel Tips: One of the reasons I booked this trip is because it’s a woman-owned business. The walks are by appointment only, you cannot show up to take a tour. Watch the required videos beforehand, wear the required footwear, and be sure to tip your guides. (Running Reindeer Ranch; 1470 Ivans Alley, Fairbanks, AK 99709; Tel: 907-455-4998)
Setting My Bearings at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center
Visiting the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center should have been my first Fairbanks experience, but my itinerary didn’t work out that way. I remember visiting during my first trip to Fairbanks and it seems to have grown a bit. I walked to the visitor center from my hotel the morning of my reindeer walk and it was a good cardio workout, especially wearing my winter wear which felt like heavier with each step.
But I wouldn’t have it any other way. Near the center is the Antler Arch, comprised of more than 100 caribou and moose antlers collected from Interior Alaska. It serves as a gateway to downtown and monitored by a live webcam. I’m sure viewers got a kick of me trying to capture the perfect selfie in front of the arch. I also admired some of the public art, like murals, pipes, and sculptures and took time to read some of the monuments.
The center provides a fantastic overview of Alaska’s and Fairbanks’s history and culture through various exhibits and displays. It’s also a resource for planning your visit with accommodations, activities, and other things to do.
Travel Tips: If you have a national parks passport and collect stamps, bring it into the center and add to your collection. I purchased postcards from the center and sent them out, including one to me. Use #ExploreFairbanks in your social posts. (Morris Thompson Cultural & Visitor Center; 101 Dunkel St., Fairbanks, AK 99701; Tel: 907-459-3700)
A Bittersweet Departure
Words and imagery can’t encapsulate the magic of my winter trip to Fairbanks. I packed a lot into my extended weekend. Before flying back to Tampa via Seattle, I started thinking about when I could return.
My flight to Seattle left around 1:30 a.m. and I intentionally booked this flight in the event I didn’t see the northern lights. I figured, if I didn’t see them during my visit, my chances were pretty good from the plane, and I was right! I booked a window seat on the lefthand side (port) of the plane, the side providing a view of Alaska’s interior. My flight was about an hour late departing and once in the air, there it was. The aurora borealis brilliantly dancing above the horizon. Because it was so late, just about everyone on the flight was asleep so I contained my giddiness and enjoyed the dazzling show for about an hour. This was the perfect finale for my bewitching winter trip to Fairbanks.
Getting Around Fairbanks During the Winter
Some of y’all think I’m brave because I travel solo, truth is, there are some things I won’t do. Although tempted to rent a car, the more I read about the locations of my activities and possible road conditions, I let the driving to the professionals.
From the airport to my hotel and for my return to the airport, I utilized the free hotel shuttles. As mentioned in the beginning, the first night’s tour picked me up from the hotel. From Chena Hot Springs Resort to the final Fairbanks hotel, I booked the resort’s shuttle for a fee.
Uber and Lyft aren’t reliable, especially for pick-ups in remote areas, so I hired Pioneer Taxi (Tel: 907-456-4000) to fill in the gaps. They picked me up from my first night’s hotel and transported me to my sunrise dogsledding adventure, waited for me, and drove me to Chena Hot Springs. On the last day of Fairbanks adventure, they transported me from the hotel and dropped me off at Running Reindeer Ranch. The same driver picked me up after the trip. They are family-owned and wonderful. Having the same driver made it seem as though I was meeting up with a friend and provided me insight into what it’s like living year-round in Fairbanks.
Speaking of Alaskan friends, while waiting for the hotel shuttle at the airport, I spoke with several women also waiting for their rides. There was another solo traveler and a handful of women traveling together. I saw all of them throughout my weekend and it was nice connecting with them and exchanging stories about our experiences.
Florida to Alaska – How I Kept Warm
Although I grew up outside Buffalo, N.Y., lived through the Blizzard of 1977 and visited my parents during the Buffalo Blizzard of 2022, Florida has been home for more than a quarter-century. As a coworker in the Everglades once said, I never stepped out my door to slip and fall on my ass because of mosquitoes while living in Florida.
After booking my Alaska Airlines flight from Tampa to Fairbanks via Seattle, I decided there were two things I wasn’t prepared for, driving on Alaska’s wintery roads and warm-weather gear.
Thankfully, these were easy solutions. I addressed how I navigated my way through Fairbanks earlier. As for keeping warm I rented gear from Alaska Element (Tel: 907-385-6333) and they make it so easy. Even though I have a down parka rated for 40 below zero, I rented a parka, snow bibs, boots, and mittens from the outfitter. It was all waiting for me at the hotel front desk. When I left, I placed the gear back in their respective bags and dropped them off at the front desk for pick up. Can you get any more convenient?
Before leaving Florida, I purchased a handful of top and bottom base layers (one set was Merina wool), balaclava to cover my head and face, alpaca knit hat, wool socks, along with disposable and rechargeable handwarmers. I also packed my fleece-lined neck gaiter, favorite wool sweater from the 1990s, and a sweatshirt. Dressing in layers is key. I was toasty. My sunglasses were useful for the morning dogsledding trip, to keep wind and flying snow out of my eyes.
Temperatures ranged from about -20 degrees Fahrenheit upon landing at the airport around 4 p.m. to 20 degrees on the day of my departure. I kid you not, I looked out the window of my hotel to see a man wearing shorts and a t-shirt getting out of his car. Perhaps to him it was warm. It’s all relative.
Travel Tips: It’s not a fashion show during sub-zero temperatures. Dress in layers during the winter. Ladies, if you’ll be renting from Alaska Element, size up on the parka and bibs. You’ll want to wear layers underneath and give yourself a little extra breathing room.
Where I Stayed During My Winter Trip to Fairbanks
All my accommodations were comfortable. To keep my costs down, I utilized my AARP membership discount at the Hampton Inn & Suites my first night. Chena Hot Springs was a bucket-list destination. The room wasn’t fancy but definitely the perfect place to rest and recharge.
My last night wasn’t an overnight stay. Because of my flight departure time (around 1:30 a.m.), I made the most of my last day in Fairbanks. I took one of the first shuttles out of Chena Hot Springs in the morning to stay at the SpringHill Suites Fairbanks. I used hotel loyalty points to pay for the room and it was the most comfortable rooms from this trip. It’s also in the heart of downtown Fairbanks with easy access to dining, shops, and other activities.
Chena Hot Springs Resort
565 Chena Hot Springs Rd.
Fairbanks, AK 99711
Tel: 907-451-8104
Hampton Inn & Suites
433 Harold Bentley Ave.
Fairbanks, AK 99701
Tel: 907-451-1502
SpringHill Suites Fairbanks
575 1st Ave.
Fairbanks, AK 99701
Tel: 907-451-6552
More Photos from My Fairbanks Adventure on Flickr
I hope you have a chance to visit Fairbanks one winter or at least, book that trip you’ve been putting off and check it off your bucket list. Be sure to visit the Fairbanks Convention & Visitors Bureau website to guide you in planning your trip.
